One of the most popular Indian attires that has garnered attention across the world and has been worn by some of the most famous female celebrities and powerful global women leaders is the saree. Saree, the one-piece clothing that can be worn in hundreds of traditional and non-traditional ways is unique to India and is one of the most diverse garments as well.
The length of the saree usually lies between 3.5 to 9 yards; it can be worn on almost all occasions and ceremonies. But, in India, saree is also worn by millions of women on a daily basis.
Saree is known for its grace and versatility. The cultural diversity in the country can be gauged from the diversity of the traditional sarees available. Modern versions and fusions are innumerable and beyond count.
Saree is not just attire; it is also a symbol of one’s culture and heritage. In fact, in some sarees, folk lore and tales of yore are depicted so, the saree functions as a historical document or artefact.
In other areas, the saree reflects the belief and practices of the people of that zone. A saree is also the symbol of status and position in society. In some cases, the way a saree is draped reflects the person’s position and status.
Diversity in drapes
In India, it is this cultural diversity that seeps into its foods, fabrics, attire, folklore, art, handicrafts and saree is not untouched. So, from north to south and east to west, the single piece of cloth, called the saree, is made in different ways and worn in distinct and unique manners, making it one of the most versatile garments of the country.
Saree is a symbol of femininity and it is one of the most sensual and graceful, at the same time, attires a woman can wear. The normal length of the saree, which is six yards, is
usually worn with a distinctive blouse and an underskirt called petticoat that helps in the tucking in of the pleats of the saree to hold them in place.
It’s an interesting journey to see and understand the diversity of this traditional attire. So, in Rajasthan and Gujarat, it’s the bandhani saree or tie-dye that is very popular among women. Made using the ancient technique of tying the cloth in patterns and dipping in colourful dyes, this saree is often worn by women during festivals and rituals. These days, these sarees also come with embellishments such as mirror and bead work.
One of the most popular and distinct sarees worn by the women in Rajasthan is Leheriya saree which is made using a traditional style of tie-dye practiced in Rajasthan. The result is a brightly-coloured cloth with distinctive and complex wave patterns, hence the name leheriya. Rajasthan’s delicate and porous Kota Doria saree uses a fine-woven fabric that has a checked pattern in the weave itself.
Madhya Pradesh’s Chanderi saree is made in fine cotton or silk. It’s a light saree meant mainly for summers. Chanderi weaving is very old and dates back to the Koshti weavers of the 13th century who migrated from Jhansi to Chanderi.
The Scindia royal family of Gwalior, in 1910, revived the Chanderi art and these sarees had gold thread motifs. These sarees are usually made from chanderi cotton, silk cotton and pure silk. Common motifs used are geometrical designs, leaves, etc. and the zari work is very prominent.
Carrying legacy
Uttar Pradesh, owing to the influence of several dynasties, has a rich treasure of traditional clothing. The Banarasi saree, for example, that is a must for every festival and special occasion. It is also a must for the brides. The distinct feature of a Banarasi saree is the ‘jhallar’ – the narrow fringe-like pattern that runs along the inner and outer borders of the fabric.
Banaras or Varanasi was a renowned cotton-weaving hub during the early Buddhist period. The Banarasi silk, on the other hand, came to India during the Mughal reign. It was in the 14th century, during the Mughal rule, that the craftsmen began to develop silk fabrics woven using silver and gold zari yarns.
Brocade-weaving gained prominence in the region in the 17th century with the migration of weavers from Gujarat. And, the use of zari came with the influx of weavers from Central Asia and Persia. So, the Banarasi silk saree today is the result of the confluence of Indian and Mughal styles and fabrics.
One of the finest traditional sarees, Banarasi saree is heavy in weight as there’s rich embroidery. It comes in four varieties – Organza (Kora), Georgette Saree, Shatir Saree and Pure Silk (Katan). There are several varieties of the Banarasi silk saree that include satin borders, jangla, brocades, tanchoi, cutwork, resham butidar, etc. The patterns in these sarees are inspired from nature and include designs of birds, animals, flowers, human figures and geometric patterns.
The spirit of the east
The Taant sarees of Bengal, also known as Bengal cotton sarees, are traditional sarees of the region. The name translates to ‘made on the loom’ and these sarees are woven from cotton threads. The Taant is apt for the climate of the region which is hot and humid. In this saree, the pallu is taken over the left shoulder.
Synonymous with Bengal’s finest and oldest weaving technique, the Taant flourished between the 15th and 18th centuries in Bengal under the Mughals, along with the jamdani and muslin weaving techniques. Some of the common Taant weave categories are Fulia and Shantipur, Atpur, Begampur and Dhaniakhali.
The 200-year-old Baluchari saree of West Bengal is made of silk and woven on looms. There’s no zari and the characteristic feature of this saree is that the pallu border depicts stories from Ramayan and Mahabharat and other mythological episodes. The Kantha saree of West Bengal is also very popular – characteristic decorative motifs with a running stitch.
In the eastern state of Assam, the traditional indigenous attire worn by the women is called Mekhela Chador. The top part of the attire, called Chador, is draped around the body and tucked into the upper part of the Mekhela. It is very similar to the saree. It is made from Assam silk, particularly the three types of indigenous wild silk from Assam, namely the golden muga, warm eri silk and the white pat.
The richness of the South
When it comes to sarees from India’s south, one cannot but think about the Kanjeevaram silk sarees. Other than these, there are many popular traditional sarees from the South. These include the Mysore silk saree, Gadwal saree, Chettinad saree, Kasavu saree, Pochampally saree, Dharamavaram saree, etc.
The extremely popular Kanchipuram or Kanjeevaram silk sarees of Tamil Nadu are woven from pure mulberry silk with gold-dipped silver thread. These sarees are worn by women of Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Kerala and Karnataka for weddings, traditional ceremonies and special occasions. The most common motifs found in these are peacock and parrot. The saree has also been recognised as a Geographical indication by the Government of India.
Tamil Nadu’s Madisar saree is worn by the Brahmin community i.e. priestesses and scholars and has significance in the Iyengar and Iyer cultures. Madisar or Koshavam is a typical way in which the saree is worn by Tamil Brahmin women and dates back to ancient India (2nd century BC) and is nine yards in length. It’s worn on occasions such as marriage, Seemandham, prayer rituals, death ceremonies.
Kerala’s traditional Kasavu saree is known for its unique aesthetics and elegance – a white or off-white saree with a gold or silver-coloured border. The Malayali women wear it for weddings, temple visits and other special occasions and festivals.