Listing measures that could preserve the country’s rich handloom heritage, Ritika Seth asserts that encouraging responsible sourcing and transparent supply chains enables consumers to identify certified handloom products originating from reliable sources committed to socially conscious business practices. Educators can play a significant role in training younger generations in preserving traditions and cultivating entrepreneurial skills necessary for independent sustainability.
India’s handloom heritage is an amalgamation of its rich cultural history, craftsmanship, and artistic expression. This heritage is not just about creating beautiful textiles; it encapsulates centuries of tradition, regional diversity, and the spirit of communities. Preserving this legacy for future generations is paramount for maintaining cultural identity, supporting artisan communities, and fostering sustainable development.
In this regard, education, awareness, and consumer support play crucial roles in sustaining traditional handloom weaving techniques and empowering the artisan communities who bring these techniques to life. To encourage long-term sustainability in the handloom sector, policymakers, designers, retailers, and consumers must adopt collaborative approaches focused on education, capacity building, marketing strategies, fair trading practices, product certification schemes, and legal frameworks protecting traditional knowledge and cultural expressions.
Encouraging responsible sourcing and transparent supply chains enables consumers to identify certified handloom products originating from reliable sources committed to socially conscious business practices. Educators play an essential role in training younger generations in preserving traditions and cultivating entrepreneurial skills necessary for independent sustainability.
Retailers should prioritise showcasing genuine handloom products, educate consumers about the differences between mass-produced and handmade goods, emphasise ethical sourcing standards, and minimise waste generated during production processes. By doing so, one can protect the endangered craftsmanship. Collectively, implementing these measures promotes sustainable handloom fashion practices while benefiting traditional artisans economically and preserving valuable aspects of this invaluable heritage for future generations.
Preserving tribal heritage
In May 2022, then-Chief Minister of Tripura, Biplab Kumar Deb, initiated the process to secure a Geographical Indication (GI) tag for the traditional garment ‘risa’. The aim being to boost its global appeal and marketing potential. In March 2024, in a significant cultural milestone, risa was officially granted the GI registration. This was a culmination of the combined efforts of the Killa Mahila Cluster of Gomati district supported by the Tripura Rural Livelihood Mission (TRLM).
The coveted recognition is a step in the direction of celebrating Tripura’s rich tribal heritage. Risa is a handwoven cloth that is used by the women of the region as an upper garment. It is common in almost all 19 indigenous tribal communities of the state. It incorporates stylish designs and unique colour combinations and is a beacon of local tribal art of Tripura. It’s the tribal women who create this fabric using loin looms – with colourful warp and weft threads.
This move also highlights the efforts taken by the government in ‘preserving and promoting the unique cultural identity of the state.’ The GI tag for Risa not only ‘safeguards the traditional craftsmanship and authenticity of the attire but also opens doors for economic opportunities and increased visibility on the national and international stage.’
The nomadic Lambani community in Karnataka is also striving to preserve its unique handloom heritage. The women’s traditional attire is an exquisite work of mirrors and embroidery on the fabric, an example being the Phetiya Kanchali. The women have taken things in their hands to ensure revival of this ancient textile art.
Over decades, the community has been hit with poverty, alcoholism and rampant migration for livelihood which has directly jeopardised their existence and the Lambani art. With the help of NGOs and their new-found dedication, the Lambani women weavers and artisans are working hard to create traditional fabrics and textiles that are supporting them financially and ensuring survival of this dying art.
In 2020, the government had launched “Aadi Mahotsav – Madhya Pradesh” to help transform the lives and livelihoods of the tribals of the zone. Aadi Mahotsav, a joint initiative of Ministry of Tribal Affairs and Tribal Cooperative Marketing Development Federation of India (TRIFED), is a national tribal festival showcasing traditional art and handicrafts and cultural heritage of the country.
Tribal communities are major contributors in terms of providing raw materials for silk and other fabrics that are the backbone of the handloom industry. But they are often at the fringe of the economic chain. Initiatives are being taken to provide them skill development training and making them self-reliant so they can get a fair price for their work and at the same time preserve traditional skills.
Cultural continuance
Handloom textiles are a reflection of India’s rich cultural diversity. Each region has its own unique weaving styles, patterns, and motifs, often carrying significant cultural and symbolic meanings. Preserving these traditions helps maintain the cultural identity of various communities and ensures the continuity of their heritage.
The industry is a significant source of employment, especially in rural and semi-rural areas. It provides livelihoods to millions of artisans, many of whom belong to marginalised communities. Ensuring the sustainability of this industry is crucial for the economic sustenance of these communities, which in turn will ensure preservation of their heritage.
Handloom weaving is not just a craft; it is an art form that allows for immense creativity and innovation. Preserving this heritage nurtures artistic talent and keeps traditional art forms alive. Promoting these practices contributes to environmental sustainability and counters the adverse impacts of factory-made products which are energy intensive.
Role of education
Providing education and training in traditional weaving techniques is essential for their preservation. Initiatives that teach young artisans the skills of their forebears help ensure that these techniques are not lost. Incorporating modern design and marketing skills can also enhance the appeal and marketability of handloom products.
Including handloom weaving and textile arts in educational curricula can raise awareness and appreciation among younger generations. This fosters a sense of pride and encourages them to engage with and support these traditions.
Academic research and documentation of various handloom techniques, patterns, and their historical contexts are crucial. This helps in preserving knowledge and provides a rich resource for future generations to study and build upon.
Awareness campaigns can highlight the cultural and economic importance of the handloom sector. Celebrating National Handloom Day and other such initiatives can draw public attention and appreciation.
Leveraging media platforms to tell the stories of artisans and their crafts can create a deeper connection with consumers. Documentaries, social media campaigns, and articles can bring to light the skill, dedication, and cultural significance behind each handwoven piece.
Organising cultural events, exhibitions, and fashion shows featuring handloom textiles can raise awareness and showcase their beauty and craftsmanship to a wider audience. Other initiatives include ethical consumerism, promoting fair trade with equal economic opportunity, strategic collaborations and partnerships, etc.
Empowering artisan communities
The most important step towards protecting endangered skills and preserving the country’s rich handloom heritage is empowering the creator or the artisan – the handloom weaver. This can be done through cooperatives and self-help groups that provide them with a collective voice and bargaining power. These organisations can facilitate access to resources, training, and markets and, at the same time, prevent exploitation.
Government and non-governmental organisations can provide financial support, subsidies, and incentives to handloom weavers. This can help them invest in better tools, raw materials, and infrastructure.
And, most importantly, implementing policies that protect the intellectual property rights of artisans and provide them with social security benefits can significantly improve their livelihoods. Ensuring that these policies are effectively enforced is also crucial.
Preserving India’s handloom heritage is not just about maintaining a craft; it is about safeguarding a vital part of the nation’s cultural identity, supporting the livelihoods of millions of artisans, and promoting sustainable development.