Indian handloom textiles narrate histories bound together with traditions, faith, passion, and innovation transcending geographic boundaries. Each region possesses distinctive characteristics defining it culturally and economically impacting its people profoundly. Anushka Singh takes a long look at handloom craft flourished in different states with a culture of its own and says each is in a class of its own.
Indian handlooms occupy an important space in the country’s culture and heritage, serving not just as fashion accessories but also as embodiments of regional pride and identity. With a legacy spanning thousands of years, handloom weaving has flourished and diversified across varied landscapes and cultures encompassing vast geographical territories.
The regional diversity of Indian handlooms can be seen in the form of key characteristics, traditions, and specialised craftsmanship of famous regions like Banaras, Tamil Nadu, Gujarat, Assam, Kerala, Rajasthan, Andhra Pradesh, Odisha, Madhya Pradesh, Punjab, Himachal Pradesh, Maharashtra, Goa, West Bengal, and Northeast India.
Home to some of India’s finest muslin textiles, Banarasi silk sarees remain one of the most sought after varieties worldwide. Using locally sourced raw materials like mulberry silk worms and locally grown cotton, Banarasi weavers employ traditional techniques inherited from ancestors. Their expertise lies in intricately designing sarees using gold and silver zari borders alongside delicate motifs inspired by ancient temple sculptures, flowers, birds, and paisleys.
Colourful traditions
The diversity of the handloom industry in India represents the country’s cultural vibrance. Some of the popular handlooms across Indian states are Kalamkari from Andhra Pradesh, Muga Silk from Assam, Paithani from Maharashtra, Bandhani from Gujarat, Kunbi from Goa, Pochampalli Ikat from Telangana, Chanderi from Madhya Pradesh, Kasavu from Kerala, Mysore Silk from Karnataka, Kanjeevaram from Tamil Nadu, Apatani from Arunachal Pradesh, Bhagalpuri Silk from Bihar, Kosa Silk from Chhattisgarh, Panja Durries from Haryana, Phulkari from Punjab, Pashmina from Jammu and Kashmir, Eri Silk from Meghalaya, Kuchai Silk from Jharkhand, etc.
On of the most important states in the handloom sector is Telangana. Interestingly, the state boasts about 59,325 handloom weavers and more than 41,000 powerlooms working in the state. Telangana’s colourful handloom weaving traditions are particularly renowned for Ikat textiles.
The region is home to Pattu and Pochampalli sarees, the latter featuring bold stripes and checks in contrasting colours paired elegantly with contrasting borders. Designed mainly using locally cultivated cotton and silk yarns, these sarees represent the state’s rich agricultural heritage.
Another southern state is Tamil Nadu that produces high quality silk sarees and fabrics recognised globally. Emphasising finesse, precision, and durability, Tamil Nadu silk weaving centres excel in producing luxurious silk saris adorning beautiful zari borders alongside elaborate Pallav (end) designs.
Traditional cotton and handloom fabrics showcase striking prints, patterns, and colours synonymous with the state’s lush green landscapes, temples, and music scenes. Motifs inspired by wildlife, folk tales, and daily life scenarios adorn these textiles providing a window into Tamil Nadu’s vibrant cultural heritage.
The origin of Kanjivaram silk sarees can be traced back to the seventh century, when the Pallavas who were patrons of arts and crafts ruled. They initiated and supported silk weaving in Kanchipuram, which, over centuries, became integral to the local economy, making Kanchipuram famous for its exquisite South Indian Kanjivaram sarees.
The process of creating Kanjivaram sarees requires a superior level of skill and intricacy and is very labour-intensive. Traditionally, the weavers engaged in this work have been doing so for generations. The mulberry silkworm abundant in South India is the source for the silk.
After the silk thread is made from the cocoons, it is dyed using natural colours from plants, flowers, and other sources. The dyed threads are then woven on a loom using the ‘pit loom’ technique, which employs pedals and pulleys to create intricate patterns and designs.
Diversified art and craft
One of India’s largest producers of handloom textiles, Gujarat exhibits remarkable variety and versatility in handloom fabrics. Producing cotton, silk, and woollen items, Gujarati handloom weavers display exceptional mastery in utilising diverse motifs and techniques like Batik, Bandhani, and Kantha embroidery.
Utilising locally sourced cotton and silk fibre, Gujarat produces excellent double ikat sarees, bandhani dupattas, and kalamkari prints exhibiting intricate patterns and deep colours characteristic of the region. Woven traditionally using wooden looms, these fabrics bear testimony to Gujarat’s thriving textile industry powered by innovative enterprise and robust infrastructure.
In Gujarat, the Kalamkari work manifests in the form of Mata ni Pachhedi (backdrop of mother goddess) and Mata no Chandarvo (canopy of the mother goddess). This form is prevalent in Ahmedabad and is a unique textile-painting and block-printing tradition practised by a few members of the Waghari community. These textiles are used for religious rituals during festivals such as Navratri.
Assam stands out for its natural silk and ethnographic motifs. Native Assamese silk weaving has existed since time immemorial, drawing inspiration from indigenous musical instruments like Bodho drums, traditional dance forms like Bihu, and folktales revolving around heroic legends.
Silk fabrics exhibit classic Assamese patterns characterised by elegant diamond shapes, circular figures, radiating lines, crosses, stars, fish scales, palm leaves, bird feathers, elephant tusks, among other motifs. Cotton fabrics weave stories related to agriculture, rural lifestyle, tribal culture, and the flora and fauna native to the region.
Kerala, best known for its spices and coconuts, too harbours a rich tradition of handloom weaving centred around cotton and silk fabrics. Producing soft, lightweight cotton saris embellished with fine silk borders bearing detailed floral patterns inspired by temple architecture and lotus motifs, Kerala’s textiles reflect the harmonious blend of simplicity and elegance intrinsic to its culture. Malabar silk sarees display intricately designed border patterns combined with solid colours making them attractive choices for formal events.
Cultural heritage
Some of the most popular handlooms of the country come from Rajasthan which presents a fascinating mix of Block Printing and traditional Bandhani work. Known for its vibrancy and sophistication, Bandhani works utilise vegetable dyes to resist dye absorption creating patterns in blocks resembling tattoos on humans.
Garments feature dense floral motifs offering glimpses into Rajasthan’s royal past steeped in valiant warriors, majestic palaces, and regal lifestyles. Block printed cotton and silk fabrics showcase a plethora of patterns depicting peacocks, elephants, camels, deer, horses, owls, parrots, and other creatures, celebrating Rajasthan’s love affair with nature and animals.
Located amidst tropical forests and coastal waters, Andhra Pradesh specialises in producing lightweight cotton fabrics painted with intricate botanical motifs. Inspired by natural resources and abundant biodiversity, Andhra Pradesh’s handloom weaving centres paint storylines focusing on village life, farmworkers, harvest festivals, water sports, and marine themes. Bright colours and contrasting border patterns make these stand out distinguishing them from other Indian handloom collections.
Weaving is integral to Odisha’s socio-economic framework, predominantly practiced by tribal communities. Creating intricate temple motifs on cotton fabric and visually stunning ikat patterns, Odisha handloom weavers showcase impressive artistry reflecting local folklore and culture. Fabric patterns incorporate images of gods and goddesses, suns, moon circles, butterflies, trees, etc., celebrated in everyday life. Classic Sambalpuri silk sarees exemplify refined traditional craftsmanship imbuing aesthetics of the zone seamlessly.
Situated amidst hills and rivers, West Bengal’s handloom textiles echo India’s literary heritage evoking emotions through poetry and literature reflected in their artwork. Bengali silk sarees adorned with intricate motifs portraying epics, classical poems, characters from Indian mythology, nature scenes, and abstract patterns resonate well with West Bengal’s rich cultural ambiance.
Handloom Jamdani textiles exhibited in museums around the globe demonstrate craftsmanship excellence prevalent in West Bengal. Jamdani silks manifest traditional motifs complemented by contemporary interpretations offering insights into its cultural complexity.
Indian handloom textiles narrate histories bound together with traditions, faith, passion, and innovation transcending geographic boundaries. Each region possesses distinctive characteristics defining it culturally and economically impacting its people profoundly.