Right in the laps of the Maharashtra’s Western Ghats, Jawhar is sylvan green cradle of the Warli cultural history with a heady blend of nature, history and traditions, a symphony of beauty and heritage the spirit of every traveller seeking to embrace its grandeur. The once tribal kingdom in Palghat district jealously retains its quaint identity and acts as a cultural conduit, linking visitors directly to the soul of the ancient tribe. It has the trappings of a soulful pilgrimage and a tourist’s delight given its peculiar rituals, fests and treasure troves.
Nestled within the embrace of the Sahyadri mountain range, Jawhar emerges as a jewel amidst Maharashtra’s lush green hills. Rightly recognised as the cultural epicentre of the Warli tribe in the region, this town seamlessly intertwines the elements of nature, history, and tradition, creating a canvas that calls out to those seeking sanctuary from the urban hustle. A journey through this hidden haven reveals the myriad wonders that make Jawhar an irresistible travel destination.
The hill station of Jawhar is a municipal council in Maharashtra’s Palghar district and is known as the ‘Mahabaleshwar of Palghar’ for its deep, magnificent valleys and overwhelming natural beauty. Jawhar, also known as Jawhar Rajwada among the locals, is one of the few tribal kingdoms of Maharashtra where they have retained the indigenous ways of living and working.
Tribal treasure
In Palghar, it’s the Warli, Katkari and Malhar fishermen tribes that are found in majority. Jawhar is home to the Warlis primarily and more than a thousand-year-old Warli artwork has been found preserved here. Rich in tribal culture and heritage, tarpa dance forms part of the identity of the locals.
Jawhar serves as a gateway to the captivating world of the Warli people, one of India’s most prominent tribal groups, boasting a cultural legacy that resonates through the ages. The Warlis are celebrated for their unique art, a visual dialect expressing their profound connection with nature.
Their paintings, marked with a unique austerity, are made in white and substances used are derived from nature such as rice flour, soil, plant colours, etc. The paintings depict life, customs like marriage, dance, and daily activities of the Warli people and their closeness to nature.
A pilgrimage to Jawhar is not just a recommendation; it’s a necessity. Here, roads meandering around the Sahyadris burst to life with scenes of daily life of a tribal, ancient ritual, and the seamless coexistence of humanity and the natural world. This zone acts as a cultural conduit, linking visitors directly to the soul of the ancient tribe.
Natural abundance
No sojourn in Jawhar is complete without surrendering to the mesmerising beauty of Dabhosa Waterfall. Plummeting from a towering height of 300 feet and one of the highest waterfalls in Maharashtra, this cascade transforms into a living spectacle during the monsoon. Interestingly, it is one of the rare waterfalls that flow throughout the year.
For travellers craving both tranquillity and adventure, Dabhosa offers the thrill of rappelling, trekking, kayaking, laddering, valley crossing through the glorious waterfall, night walks, and jungle cooking options amid the serenity of nature. It becomes a sanctuary for those seeking both a peaceful retreat and an exhilarating escapade, presenting the diverse facets of Jawhar’s allure.
Jawhar offers abundant options for the intrepid souls. A range of trekking trails meandering through the dense forests, babbling streams, and panoramic viewpoints are popular among the adventure seekers. The Kalmandavi Waterfall is another hotspot that lies eight km from the town of Jawhar. The waterfall is about 100 m deep and the trek here is a favourite among nature enthusiasts that promises a gratifying odyssey culminating in the sight of a cascading waterfall amid untouched wilderness. As the ascent progresses, the air becomes crisper, and the vistas more breath-taking, revealing the untamed beauty of Jawhar’s rugged terrain. One can also avail rock climbing and rappelling here.
The Sunset Point in Jawhar is a vista point, a natural one, which offers breath-taking view of the setting sun in the lap of the Sahyadri hills. Here, one can see the sun set in the faraway peak at a distance and is one of the many such views offered by Jawhar’s natural vista points. A temple, home to the village god, also known as gramdaivat, stands close to the popular tourist destination offering a sense of serenity and austerity in the lap of nature.
The pristine forests of Jawhar are home to several unexplored natural wonders. Another popular tourist destination is the waterfall in Hiradpada village, one of the more than 100 villages in Jawhar. Located about 500 m from the village, the waterfall, cozily tucked in dense foliage offers jaw-dropping views.
The royal grandeur
As the sun descends, casting a warm glow over the hills, the journey along Jawhar’s tree-lined roads leads to the regal Jai Vilas Palace – an embodiment of Jawhar’s regal past, derived from the Mukne dynasty. The palace is an architectural marvel that stands as a testament to the grandeur and historical significance of the region. Surrounded by opulent gardens, thick forests and cashew plantations and offering panoramic views of the valley, the palace transports visitors to a bygone era.
A walk through the ornate corridors of the palace ador
ed with vintage artefacts and photographs, allows the tales of the Mukne dynasty to come alive. Beyond being a window to Jawhar’s history, the palace emerges as a serene refuge for those seeking solace amid architectural splendour.
The palace is also known as the Raj Bari and was once the residential palace of the Mukne kings. The palace is precariously perched on the edge of the top of a hill and its highly attractive domes can be seen from a distance. Built by Raja Yashwantrao Mukne, the stone used for construction give the palace its unique colour and royal magnificence.
The Muknes and history of Jawhar
Yashwantrao Martandrao Mukne (Patangshahji Mukne V or Dada Saheb), a multi-faceted personality, was one of the most famous Koli kings from the Mukne dynasty whose life unfolded against the backdrop of colonial India’s struggle for independence. Born on 11 December 1917, in the princely state of Jawhar, Yashwantrao Mukne was the son of Vikramshah Pantangshah.
The Mukne Dynasty, founded by Koli chief Jayabha Mukne in the middle of the 14th q63.century, ruled over Jawhar state for six hundred years until 1947 when India gained independence. The family, with its roots deeply embedded in the history of Jawhar, played a crucial role in shaping the destiny of the region.
Yashwantrao’s father, Vikramshah Pantangshah, served in World War I and was honoured with a nine-gun salute when he died at the age of 42. His untimely demise in 1928 paved the way for the young Yashwantrao to ascend to the throne. However, due to his young age, his mother, Rajmata Saguna Bai Mukne, took on the role of regent until he came of age in 1938 and assumed full power.
Yashwantrao Mukne’s reign as the Koli Maharaja of Jawhar was marked by progressive and benevolent governance. He undertook substantial developmental initiatives, fostering growth in industries, especially paper, chemical, textile, dyeing and starch industries. Notably, he established a factory in Nepal Kingdom in 1907 for the production of pistols and firearms, demonstrating his commitment to supporting the freedom struggle against British rule in India.
Education and healthcare were among Yashwantrao’s top priorities. He instituted free primary education and ran middle and high schools, library, museum, and hospital. His efforts extended to rural areas, where he arranged mobile dispensaries to ensure healthcare access for all.
As World War II unfolded, Yashwantrao Mukne volunteered and served as a Flight Lieutenant in the Royal Indian Air Force for four years. His commitment to the nation extended beyond his princely duties.
After independence in 1947, Jawhar State acceded to independent India and Yashwantrao Mukne transitioned into politics. A member of the Indian National Congress, he was elected to the 1st Lok Sabha from the reserved seat for Scheduled Tribes in Thane constituency. Subsequently, he represented Bhiwandi in the 3rd Lok Sabha and Dahanu in the 4th Lok Sabha, both being reserved constituencies.
Apart from his political endeavours, Yashwantrao Mukne authored a book titled “Jayaba,” providing a historical account of his family and forefathers. He married Her Highness Priyamvada Raje, a princess of Jath State, and they had one son and two daughters. The royal family resided in the grandeur of Jai Vilas Palace in Jawhar.
Yashwantrao Martandrao Mukne’s legacy echoes through the annals of Jawhar’s history – a ruler, patriot, and statesman whose contributions transcended the boundaries of his princely state and left an indelible mark on the pages of India’s struggle for independence.
A spiritual resonance
As the first rays of dawn illuminate the landscape, a pilgrimage to Hanuman Point becomes a spiritual awakening. Named after the Hanuman Temple, this vantage point gifts breathtaking views of the surrounding valleys and hills. The tranquil ambiance encourages introspection, making it an ideal locale for meditation or simply marvelling at the wonders of creation. The beautiful valley below the point is known as Devkobacha Kada.
Hanuman Point provides a spiritual journey, reminding visitors of the interconnectedness of the natural world and the divine. The Hanuman Mandir, known as Katya Maruti Mandir, a popular spot in Jawhar is thronged by locals and visitors alike. Interestingly, the fort of Shahapur Maholi is visible from this temple during the day. With a deep valley on three sides of the temple on the cliff, one can get a panoramic view of the tribal town with the grand Jai Vilas Palace resting on another cliff top.
Another important site at Jawhar is Shirpamal – a historical monument that commemorates the visit of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, the founder of the Maratha Empire, to the Jawhar region in 1664. According to the legend, Shivaji Maharaj camped near the princely state of Jawhar and met the Koli ruler Vikramshah Mukne of Jawhar, who joined him in his expedition to Surat.
Shirpamal was the meeting place of Shivaji and Vikramshah, and it has since become a symbol of their friendship and alliance. The monument is a simple stone structure, with a plaque that reads ‘Shivaji Maharajancha Vishram Sthan,’ which means ‘Shivaji Maharaj’s resting place’ in Marathi.
It is situated on the top of a hill, and offers a panoramic view of the Jawhar region, which is known for its natural beauty and tribal culture. Shirpamal is a place of reverence for the locals and a popular spot for trekkers and photographers, who enjoy the scenic surroundings and the historical significance of the place.
Jawhar’s bustling markets call upon the visitors to immerse themselves in the local culture, a vibrant tableau painted with hues and fragrances. The markets are a hub of traditional handicrafts and stand as a treasure trove for those in pursuit of authentic Warli artifacts, paintings and tribal jewellery. Here, one can engage with local artisans, eager to share the narratives crafted into their creations.
As the aromas of regional delicacies waft through the air, surrender your taste buds to Jawhar’s culinary wonders. Most visitors crave the local food comprising nachani ki roti (Ragi or finger millet chapati) but a wide range of food options for the visitors are available as well.
The Mask Festival
Bohada is a 250-year-old festival that celebrates the mythological past of India’s North Maharashtra. It is held in several towns and villages of Palghar District, including Jawhar, where the people have a strong connection to nature and traditional healers.
For the entire duration of the festival, the town is transformed into a magical world, where masked dancers in bright colours sway to the rhythm of the sambal and the melody of the shehnai played by Warli musicians. They carry torches that light up the night sky and are followed by a crowd of faithful devotees.
The festival also honours the gavdevi with dances that depict characters from Ramayan, Mahabharat, and other mythological stories and scriptures, such as Lord Ganesha, Goddess Saraswati or Sharada, Ravana, Bheem, and others.
Bohada coincides with the Shimga festival, which is the local name for Holi, and lasts from five to 15 days. Shimga is a vibrant festival that celebrates the arrival of spring and the victory of good over evil. It is also known as Holi, Holika Dahan, or Kamadahan in different parts of India. Shimga is mainly celebrated in the Konkan region of Maharashtra and Goa.
The festival begins with a ritual bonfire, where people burn grass, wood, and cow-dung in a pit. This symbolises the burning of the demoness Holika, who tried to kill Prahlad the devotee of Lord Vishnu. People also sing and dance around the fire, and exchange greetings and wishes.
One of the highlights of the festival is the procession of the village deity in a palanquin, which is carried by the villagers from house to house. The villagers decorate their houses with paintings and rangoli, and offer prayers and offerings to the deity. They also seek blessings for their families and crops.
The tribals who participate in the festival have a rich heritage and a deep attachment to their masks and costumes, which they keep in a sacred place in their homes after each festival. They remember their ancestors who danced with the same masks and costumes for generations.
Jawhar is not merely a destination but an embodiment of diverse experiences waiting to be explored. From the rich cultural canvas of the Warli tribe to the majestic allure of waterfalls and the serene embrace of picturesque valleys, Jawhar unfolds its treasures along the way.
As the sun dips beneath the horizon, casting a golden glow over the hills, the enchantment of Jawhar becomes palpable—a place where nature and culture converge in an invigorating dance, etching an everlasting impression on the hearts of those fortunate enough to delve into its wonders.
In the heart of Maharashtra’s Western Ghats, Jawhar beckons—a symphony of beauty and heritage, poised to rejuvenate the soul of every traveller venturing into its embrace.
Manu Shrivastava is a journalist andlawyer with DraftCraft International and Co-Convenor of #TheWomanSurvivor, #MeTooAtHomeand #MeTooBeyondBorders initiatives.