There are many islands that constitute the diverse landscape of GoaEveryone knows about the many beaches of Goa, the popular ones and the not-so-popular ones. Few, however, are aware of the many islands that constitute the diverse landscape of the state. Goa encompasses an area of 3,702 sq km and is the smallest state in India. It is a part of the western coastal region of India known as Konkan and has a coastline of a whopping 160 km (99 miles).
There are seven major river systems in Goa arising out of the Mandovi, Zuari, Terekhol, Chapora, Galgibag, Cumbarjua canal, Talpona and the Sal rivers – all fed by the southwest monsoon rains. Of these, Zuari and the Mandovi are the most important rivers, interspaced by the Cumbarjua canal, forming a major and eco-sensitive estuarine complex in the region.
The basin of these rivers covers a significant portion of Goa amounting to 69 per cent of the geographical area. The complex and widespread riverine system in Goa is the reason why the region has a large number of islands. In all, Goa has more than 90 riverine, 40 estuarine and eight marine islands. Goa also has more than 300 ancient water tanks that were built during the reign of the Kadambas.
An island with ancient temples
One of the most important and visited islands of Goa is Divar Island, on Mandovi river, located just 10 km from the state capital Panjim. It’s a great place for birding in Goa and is accessible only by ferry. Three ferry routes serve the island – from Ribandar, from Old Goa (Velha Goa) near Basilica of Bom Jesus and from Naroa in Bicholim.
The Konkani word for Divar is ‘divadi’ which is what the local Hindus still call the island. The word ‘divadi’ was derived from ‘devawadi’ translating to ‘the home of the gods’ or the place where gods live. The island was once full of temples and, even today, remains of Hindu temples and sites can be found. Saptakoteshwar Temple, Ganesh Temple, Mahamaya Temple and Dwarkeshwar Temple were destroyed during the Christianisation of Goa in the 16th century by the Portuguese and were shifted by the devotees to safer locations.
The Saptakoteshwar Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva and one of the six great sites of Shiva temples in Konkan, was destroyed during the Portuguese inquisition. A few devotees took the deity to Hindale (Narve) across the waters in Bicholim, where, in 1668, Maratha ruler Chhatrapati Shivaji built a temple and reinstalled the deity. On the eastern end of the island is an area called Porne Tirth, now an archaeological site, which was the original site of Saptakoteshwar Temple.
Divar has three Communidades – Piedade, São Mathias (now Malar), Goathias. The Piedade Communidade was later sub-divided into Goltim and Navelim. At Piedade, on top of the hill there is the beautiful Church of Our Lady of Piety that offers a breath-taking view of the Mandovi around the island and Old Goa. Next to the church is a graveyard where once stood a Ganesh temple. The São Mathias Church in Malar was built by the Portuguese over 400 years ago.
The island has beautiful, palatial bungalows built in a blend of Portuguese and Indian styles. Divar Island is also known for the popular Bonderam Festival, celebrated on the fourth Saturday of August with great fanfare and euphoria. Thousands attend the festival which commemorates the villagers’ protest against the Portuguese system of resolving land and other disputes by erecting flags at the boundaries. So, on Bonderam, as a tradition, the locals knock down each other’s flags amid an ambience of carnival. There’s food, music, parading floats and locals dressed in colourful costumes.
Another festival, the Potekar festival is celebrated for three days on the island before the start of Lent / Ash Wednesday. Similar to Halloween, locals wear costumes, masks, other accessories and venture around the village, going to homes demanding snacks and drinks.
Displaying communal harmony
The Mandovi river system has many major islands Ilha de Goa, Chorão, Vanxim, Cumbarjua, St Estevam and several other small mangrove islands and sand banks. Vanxim or Capão is a tiny island located north of Divar Island and accessible only from Divar by a ferry is a thinly-populated island where the Hindu and Christian families coexist peacefully. Earlier, locals were engaged in poultry and paddy cultivation. However, that has stopped now and most are dependent on fishing for livelihood.
There are a few beautiful churches on the island. Built in 1879, the Church of Santo Cristo hosts the feasts of the Miraculous Chapel and Santo Cristo in the months of April and May. The Chapel of the Miraculous Cross is also an important landmark that is visited by Goans from all over.
Vanxim is surrounded by mangroves on all sides just like Divar and Chorao. Interestingly, there is a Cross installed in the middle of the Mandovi water stream between Divar and Vanxim, clearly visible during the ferry ride. The Cross was constructed by the villagers in memory of a doctor, Louis Cabral, who lived on Divar but would regularly visit Vanxim residents.
Eco-sensitive and biodiverse
Among the many eco-sensitive islands in Goa is Chorao island on the Mandovi that lies at a distance of five km from Panjim and can be easily reached by a ferry from Ribandar. Also known as Choddnnem or Chodan, it’s the largest among other islands of Goa. Chorao village is known for its Luso-Goan churches and houses and the famous Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary where one can see more than 400 migratory and native species of birds.
The Chorao island comprises three comunidades – Chorao, Ambelim and Caraim (Caroi). Comunidades of Goa were a form of land association developed in Goa where land ownership was collectively held but controlled by the male descendants of those who claimed to be the founders of the village. The centre of the island is Saude.
Jesuits christianised Chorao at the same time as Divar Island and Salcete. The area was one of the first to be
conquered by the Portuguese in 1510 and by the end of 1552, a small church was built to serve the 300 of the 3,000 islanders who were converted to Christianity. By 1560, Jesuit Dom João Nunes de Barreto had set up residence in Chorao. The island had two forts to keep the Marathas at bay including Fortaleza de São Bartolomeu de Chorão (Saint Bartholomew Fort of Chorão) built in 1720 that now lies in ruins.
One of the most beautiful and picturesque islands is Goa is the Sao Jacinto Island – derived from the name of the church, St. Jacinto’s Church. It is located at a distance of 22 km from Panjim and seven km from Bogmalo beach and is close to Goa International Airport at Dabolim. A bridge connects the island to NH-17 Vasco-Panaji coastal highway and offers a breath-taking view of the island against the pristine waters. The quaint island is preserved in time devoid of external influence. Most of the island is covered with forests. One corner has old houses and there’s a well intact Portuguese lighthouse.
Conco Island, located in the Canacona region, at the North end of Palolem beach, is very popular among foreign tourists. It’s also known as Monkey Island because of the many monkeys in the forests of the island. The island can be reached by ferries and also an easy swim in low tide. Surrounded by the Arabian Sea, the island offers great adventure sports options for tourists such as snorkeling, scuba diving, surfing, swimming around this island, sunbathing, etc.