Almost a century after Vasco da Gama landed on the West Coast of India (1498), the Europeans started making inroads into Bengal and rest of East India including the present day Bangladesh, using the Hooghly River, a major distributor of the Ganges, as the main source of navigation. As trade flourished, the European powers started building store houses, which were soon fortified, resulting in fortified settlements along the Hooghly River. As settlements grew, churches and other places of worship came up, so did the cemeteries. The local traders joined the European powers in trading activities and soon started making a fortune. They started building palatial mansions in European style. Long before the British East India Company turned Kolkata into a major business hub and a leading trading centre of the world, other European powers set up their own business hubs along the Hooghly River.
The Portuguese were the first to arrive and settle in Bandel. They were followed by the Dutch in Chinsurah, Danes in Serampore and the French in Chandannagar. The Germans and the Austrians were not far behind and they settled in Rishra and Halisahar, though sadly nothing remains of their colonial presence in Bengal.
Bandel
the Portuguese stronghold
Like the West Coast of India, the Portuguese were the first Europeans to arrive in Bengal. They soon started trading from Bengal without the formal permission of the Mughal Emperor in Delhi. The trade flourished and the settlement grew.
The Portuguese were soon in need of a place of worship and a church was built in 1599. It is the oldest church in undivided Bengal (West Bengal and Bangladesh combined), and one of the oldest in the subcontinent. Sadly, the days of the Portuguese in Bengal were numbered, and they were soon overthrown by the British, and the Bandel Church is today the sole remnant of Portuguese rule in Bengal.
Today, Bandel is located about 50 km north of Kolkata and is on the other side of the Hooghly River. The church, with its clock tower, has been modified largely over the years, and nothing much remains of its past structure.
The entrance is through an arched gateway on the banks of the Hooghly and is crowned with a statue of Mary with baby Jesus, on a boat. After entering the church, take the stairs to the top balcony where devotees light candles in front of ‘Our Lady of the Happy Voyage’. The balcony also provides spectacular views of the Jubilee Bridge spanning across the Hooghly. The Jubilee Bridge built in 1887 on the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria’s reign, is one of the oldest operating rail bridges in the world.
The story of the Bandel Church
In 1632, the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan attacked the Portuguese settlement which also had a small fort. The Portuguese were soundly defeated and their fort and church were reduced to ruins. Several Portuguese and local Christians were killed. Father Joan De Cruz was taken prisoner to Agra, where he was thrown in front of a ferocious elephant. But the rogue elephant instead of trampling the priest to death, lifted him by his trunk and placed him on his back.The miracle impressed the Emperor to such an extent that he not only set the priest and his followers free, but also provided tax free land for the construction of a new church. The church was reconstructed in 1661 and the miracles continued. It was during the siege that a local Christian by the name of Taigo, in a desperate bid to save the statue of Mary dived into Hooghly, and was never seen again. Strangely, on the day of the inauguration of the church, the statue appeared on the banks of the Hooghly. The statue was reestablished and came to be known as ‘Our Lady of the Happy Voyage’.
When the celebrations of the inauguration were in progress, a Portuguese ship with tattered sails appeared on the river bank. It transpired that the ship had encountered a terrific storm a few days ago and the crew was lucky to be alive. During the storm the captain of the ship had promised to offer the main mast of the ship to the first church he sighted. The captain kept his word and the mast can still be seen in the compound of the church. The Portuguese word for mast is bandel and the church came to be known as the Bandel Church, and the locality surrounding the church also came to be known as Bandel.
Get down from the balcony and head for the main altar housing the statue of Our Lady of Holy Rosary. The other two altars on the side contain a statue of Jesus and St. John Bosco. The entire complex contains several statues dedicated to different Christian saints. Apart from the Church, Bandel has other things to offer, and the Imambara is on top of the list.
The Imambara: Imambara literally means the residence of the Imam, but in the Indian subcontinent the word stands for a house or an assembly hall built by the Shiites for observing Muharram. Built in memory of the great philanthropist Hazi Muhammad Mohsin, the imposing structure took 20 years to build and was completed in 1861.
Designed by architect Keramtulla Khan, the two-storied building is centered around a rectangular courtyard, decorated with fountains and pools. But the prime attraction of the Imambara is its 85 feet high twin towers. The two towers are respectively reserved for men and women and each contains a set of 152 stairs, and they offer spectacular views of the Hooghly including the Jubilee Bridge. The three-storied structure connecting the tower contains a clock on the top floor, while the lower floors contain the bells and the clock machinery. However, these are out of bounds for the public. The room at the far end of the courtyard contains beautiful chandeliers and is decorated with religious artifacts. The courtyard at the back contains a sun dial. But sadly, the Imambara is in a rundown state, the fountain has long stopped working, and the crystal clear water has turned green. Incredibly, the Imamabara still stands and its clock still strikes every quarter of an hour marking the passage of time, and reminding one of the glorious days of Bandel.
Chinsurah
let’s go Dutch
Chinsurah or Chuchura has an interesting etymology. According to some sources, the word derived from a special cane called chinchira, while others opine the word was derived from the Bengali word chura (spire), as Chinsurah had several churches and temples with tall spires.
The former Dutch colony (1615–1825) was once considered the most beautiful town of Bengal. Today, Chinsurah is just like any small town of West Bengal, crowded, unplanned,with chaotic traffic. In 1825, the Dutch exchanged Chisurah for the island of Sumatra with the British. So Chinsurah houses an interesting mix of Dutch, British and indigenous heritage.
The prime attraction of Chinsurah is the British built clock tower. It was constructed in 1914 in honour of the British Emperor Edward VII. It is an elegant piece of metallic architecture with four dials and lamp shades in every corner. The clock tower also contains two medallions of Edward the VII and two plaques giving a brief history of the structure.
Before the handover of Chinsurah to the British, Chinsurah was a flourishing town with the Fort Gustava dominating the river front. After the British took over Chinsurah, they demolished the fort and used the material to build several buildings.
Several of these buildings exist to this day and are put into adoptive reuse. The District Court located just south of the clock tower once served as an army barrack. It is a very long building with a long corridor, considered as the longest in India. Next to the court is the Hooghly Madrassa with several cannons scattered in its compound.
Next to the Madrassa is an elegant colonial garden house, which once served as the residence of the Dutch Governor of Chinsurah. The original buildings have long been demolished and the British constructed a building at the same place, which serves as the residence of divisional commissioner of Burdwan. The original building was built in 1744 and was named Welgeleegen. The new building contains a plaque with the inscription VOC (Vereenigde Ostindische Companie, meaning Dutch East India Company), 1687. The compound of the Commissioner House still houses two VOC canons. The canons pointing out toward the Hooghly River are the only reminder of the days of the Dutch Fort Gustava.
Just in front of the court and the Madrassa is a huge open space. It is known as the maidan and serves as a sporting arena of different sports for the residents in and around Chinsurah. During the Dutch period this open space served as a vegetable garden and the British kept it open to keep an eye on approaching enemy soldiers. Luckily, the open space survived and is still in use.
The maidan area contains several pillars with the letters CBT and a number. The letters CBT stand for Cantonment Boundary Pillars and the pillars were set up by the British to mark the boundary of the demolished Fort Gustava. At the far end of the maidan stands the Dutch Villa. Only a small portion of the villa has survived the test of time and is today flanked on either side by box like flats.
Beyond the Dutch Villa was the Dutch Church, with its octagonal bell tower. Sadly, the Dutch Church was demolished in 1980 and a circuit house constructed in its place. Next to the circuit house is the Hooghly Mohosin College, which once served as the palatial mansion of French mercenary Perron. Today the Circuit House and the Mohosin College both overlook the Hooghly River.
Further down the river are palatial mansions belonging to the Bengali families who traded with both the Dutch and the British. The Sil family mansion with its huge courtyard is still in excellent shape.
At the southern end of Chinsurah is the Sandeshwar Temple complex, housing the towering Sandeswar Temple along with several minor temples and shrines. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the temple houses two brass drums, which were gifted by the Dutch Governor. They are taken out for public display on the last day of Bengali New Year.
At the northern end of the town and on the banks of the river Hooghly is the Bande Mataram House. It served as a residence of Bankim Chandra Chatterjee and legends say that the song Bande Mataram was first sung in this very house. Today, it serves as a museum.
Chinsurah also has its share of Islamic heritage with the beautiful Moti Jheel Mosque, which is located next to the huge water body of the same name.
The attractions of Chinsurah or Chuchura are not restricted only to the Hooghly River front. Located in a very congested part of the town is the Dutch Cemetery, an Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) protected site. The cemetery contains an assortment of graves scattered under the shade of ancient trees. The oldest grave dates back to 1743, while the newest one to 1840; this cemetery contains the graves of three Dutch Governors and many well known people.
Apart from the Dutch Cemetery, Chinsurah also houses an interesting grave along the Grand Trunk Road. The towering grave of Susana Annamaria is an architectural beauty.
Apart from the Dutch and the British, the Armenians have left their mark on the history of Chinsurah. The Armenian Church of St. John the Baptist was built in 1692 and happens to be the second oldest church in undivided Bengal (next to Bandel Church). Today the church is in great shape and every year in January, the Armenians of Kolkata make a pilgrimage to the Armenian Church of Chinsurah.
The Bollywood connection
Historical records say Susana Anamaria married twice. Her first husband was a Dutch official Bruce, while her second husband was a British official Yeats. Legends say she married seven times and murdered all of them inspiring Ruskin Bond to write the story “Susan’s Seven Husbands”, which was turned into the Bollywood movie Saat Khoon Maaf with popular actor Priyanka Chopra playing the protagonist.
Chandannagar
a slice of France
Chandannagar entry gate
Unlike the Portuguese, Dutch and Danes, the French were never driven out of Chandannagar by the British. In fact, the French rule in Chandannagar continued well after independence and Chandannagar became part of the Indian union only in 1950!
Being a French colony for almost 275 years (1678–1950), it has a distinctive French touch and French colonial architecture is scattered all over the city, but the largest concentration of colonial buildings is along the Hooghly, and the area is known as the Strand.
Chandannagar is located 33 km north of Kolkata and both its northern and southern ends were marked with gateways. Inaugurated on 14 July 1937, in memory of the fall of the Bastille, the gate contains the slogan of the French Revolution Liberte, Egalite & Fratarnite (Liberty, Equality & Fraternity). Sadly, the North Gate no longer exists, but the South Gate still stands, reminding one of the French heritage of Chandannagar.
The Sacred Heart Church is located a short distance away from the Strand. Inaugurated in 1884, the two-storied church contains twin towers. The interiors are decorated with beautiful stained glass windows and coloured relief panels.
The Strand is dominated by the pavilion dedicated to Durgacharan Rakshit, the recipient of the French award of Legion d’honneur. Built in 1920, the elegant looking pavilion consists of slender columns with decorative stucco works consisting of elephant’s head and floral designs.
Also along the Strand is the mansion of the former French commander Duplessis, now turned into Chandannagar Museum & Institute. The institutes offer French courses, and the museum houses a rare collection of French artifacts, including the personal collection of Duplessis.
Though all the artifacts displayed in the museum are French, the museum contains blood stained glasses of Jogendra Nath Sen, a resident of Chandannagar who died fighting for the allied forces during World War I and is buried in a war cemetery in France.
hotel ‘Hotel de Paris’
English meteorologist Henry “storm” Piddington
Just in front of the museum is an elegant mansion called the Patal Bari (Underground House), as a portion of the house is submerged by the Hooghly River. The Patal Bari, with its beautiful wooden sunshades and decorative water outlets, has a long list of distinguished visitors including Rabindranath Tagore and Iswar Chandra Vidyasagar. Also on the Strand is the Chandannagar Court, which once housed the luxurious French hotel, ‘Hotel de Paris’.
Located on the Grand Trunk Road and opposite the pond called Lal Dighi is the French Cemetery. The cemetery contains more than 150 tombs, many of which have beautiful ornamentation. It is the resting place of many rich and famous residents, not necessarily French, including Duplessis. It also houses the grave of Henry “storm” Piddington, a noted English meteorologist, known for his study of tropical storms.
The heritage of Chandannagar is not restricted to French architecture only. The town also houses several temples, including Nandadulal Temple. Standing on a rectangular base of 52 feet by 21 feet it is the largest do–chala (double sloped roof) temple of Bengal. Sadly, apart from a few lotus motifs it totally lacks terracotta work, which is the trade mark of Hooghly
Serampore
a Danish delight
Serampore is located about 20 km north of Kolkata and like Bandel, Chinsurah and Chandannagar, is located on the right bank of the Hooghly River. Serampore was a Danish colony from 1752 to 1845, and was known as Fredrick Nagar after the Danish King Frederick VI. In 1845, the Danish authorities sold Serampore to the British East India Company.
Serampore is known for the Danish missionary trio Joshua Marshman, Willaim Ward and William Carrey. These missionaries who arrived in Serampore in the early part of 19th century, took up the responsibility of spreading education and reforming the society.
In 1800, Carrey established the Serampore Mission Press, introduced the Bengali wooden types and published the Bengali translation of the Bible, the first book ever to be published in an Indian language. The Bengali version of Ramayana and Mahabharata were also published. The Serampore Mission Press soon came up with two newspapers – the Friends of India (English) and Samachar Darpan (Bengali). Between 1800 and 1832, the press printed 212,000 copies of different books in 40 different languages (mostly Indian languages).
Located on the banks of the Hooghly is the Serampore College, a brain child of Carrey, Marshman and Wards. The construction started in 1818 and was completed in 1821, and happens to be the oldest degree college in Asia. The building has a grand approach with a huge triangular pediment supported by massive pillars.
Apart from the main building, the Serampore College also houses several other buildings and large open spaces. It also houses the former residence of William Carrey, which has been turned into a museum housing old printing presses.
Along the river are several colonial mansions dating back to the days of the Danes, including the Baptist Mission Church. The Baptist Mission Church once served as the residence of the three missionaries Carrey, Marshman and Ward. The church is still active but has largely been modified into a modern structure. The centre of attraction in Serampore is Olave’s Church.
Built in 1805, it has a long slender spire and is approached by a long flight of stairs. The triangular pediment containing the monogram of the Danish King Frederick VI, is supported by four twin pillars. The Church is presently under repair and is funded by the Danish Government.
In front of the church is a small triangular park housing 15 Danish cannons. These cannons were once spread out in different parts of Serampore, and in 1940 the Serampore Municipality brought all the canons together for public display.
The Danish Governor House, presently in the court area, is located near the church. The grand residence of the Danish Governor has an extended portico crowned with the monogram of the Danish king. Just behind the Governor House is another small but elegant colonial structure, which served as a guard house for the Danish Governor.
Serampore houses two cemeteries dating back to the days of the Danes. The small cemetery located near the Grand Trunk Road is known as the Baptist Mission Cemetery and contains the family grave of Carrey, Marshman and Ward. The Danish Cemetery is located near the centre of the town and houses the mortal remains of several Danish officials.
The Waterworks Project on the banks of the Hooghly in Serampore houses two interesting structures – the Aldin House and the Henry Martin Pagoda. The Aldin (or Al–Din) House was probably built to promote Islam, but later it changed hands and served as a bungalow for the rich and famous Danish people in Serampore. Today it is all in ruins and overgrown with trees, but still overlooks the Hooghly River.
Useful Information
Bandel, Chinsurah, Chandannagar and Srerampore are all approachable from Kolkata by rail and road. There are very few good places to stay, so it is best to make a day trip from Kolkata.
Option A: All the places can be covered in a single day by car from Kolkata, a bit hectic, but very much possible.
Option B: This is an option for independent travelers who want to explore the place on their own. It is best to dedicate a single day for each place. Take the local trains, travel by cycle rickshaw, eat at local eateries, and explore and discover Bengal’s own Little Europe.
The other attraction of the Water Works is the Henry Martin Pagoda, originally a Hindu Temple with a unique twist of fortune. The huge two-storied Radhaballab Temple was abandoned for some unknown reason. It was later purchased by the missionary Henry Martin and turned into a chapel and came to be known as the Henry Martin Pagoda. After the construction of the Church in Serampore it lost its significance and was abandoned once again. Later, for a brief period it served as an unauthorised brewery and produced the Pagoda Rum. Today it is in ruins and overgrown with vegetation. Sadly today, it serves as an open air toilet for the local squatters.
The Goswami family of Serampore made a fortune by trading with the Danes and the British. Several Goswami mansions are mute witnesses to the glorious days of European trade in Bengal. Sadly, most of the mansions are in a rundown state as the family is not able to maintain them. In order to generate revenue they are being let out for film shootings and marriage ceremony halls. Despite all odds, the crumbling mansions of Serampore remind one of the once flourishing European trade in Bengal.
What the future holds
Presently, the West Bengal Tourism is working on proposals to develop tourism circuits covering the four colonial settlements of West Bengal. Also, funds have been arranged from the respective countries for the restoration of the heritage structure and overall development of the region.
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Rangan Datta
A mathematics teacher by profession, the writer is a regular contributor in the travel columns of leading newspapers. To know more, visit his website and blog: www.rangan-datta.info[/column]